1000 or BUST!

[Caleb]

The scope came with lens flip caps that are good quality. Also in the box was a baggie with 6-8 plastic washers. These washers are for when you dial your zero in, you can set a “zero stop”. In other words ....once you have your zero at your preferred zero distance, these washers are inserted under the turret caps to “stop” the turret from being adjusted below your zero. Example: Let’s say you set your scope zero to 100yds. You are out shooting targets from 100-500yds. You adjust your elevation to the 500yd setting (whatever that may be for your setup) and now want to shoot at 100yds again. Instead of counting how many turnsof the turret you made to get your 500yd adjustments, all you have to do is turn the turret back till you hit your “zero stop” and just set the turret to the “0” mark and you are back to a 100yd zero. Hope that makes sense. Lol




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[Caleb]

I also purchased an EGW 20moa scope rail. Since the Bergara action is essentially a Rem 700 action on steroids, scope rails were super easy to find. I purchased the 20moa rail since I’ll be shooting out to 1000yds. This will help with vertical adjustment ranges.


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[Caleb]

Oh yeah, almost forgot. I got a bubble level as well. This is pretty explanatory I think.


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[Caleb]

Waiting on the rings now.... tracking says Saturday delivery. Blah.


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[DrHenley]

Like a kid waiting for Santa

[Caleb]

I’m sleeping well, it’s finally home. Lol..... I Hate waiting for online orders but, it was well worth the wait.


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[Caleb]

Scope mounting time!

First things first, you have to degrease the mounting areas and screw threads to remove any grease or oil . This will ensure the loctite will hold properly.

Then you mount the 20 moa rail and tighten the screws to the recommended torque.... these required 20lbs.

Next step is to make sure your rifle is level.

Once you are sure you are level..... install the rings and lightly tighten them.

I like to mark the upper and lower rings that came together to assure that they will tighten properly and what not.


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[Caleb]

Next, put your scope in place and lightly tighten the top rings so that you can still move the scope forward/backwards and side to side. You need to find where the scope needs to be for your proper eye relief. Once you find out where the scope needs to be, put a level on it and tighten the screws evenly in a crisscross pattern (like lug nuts on your vehicle’s wheels). Remove one screw at a time and add a drop of blue loctite and repeat till you have all screws done.


As you can see in that last pic, I added a bubble level to the scope to help at longer ranges.

The Vortex (high) rings were way too high for this setup. So, I swapped them out for some UTG ( I know cheap rings but, they are surprisingly really well made) low rings I had in the parts bin. Here is a before and after of the gap between the bell and barrel.

That’s it, done. Scope is mounted and ready to be zero’d.


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[Caleb]

Here is the rifle all ready to head to the range. I threw on an old Harris bipod I was using the AR15 DMR I built. I’ll have to pick up another bipod sometime in the future.


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[Caleb]

PS: check out the sun shade I threw on there. I think it makes it look like it has serious business to attend to. Also, the muzzle is threaded so I’ll throw a brake on there as soon as I find it (wherever the hell I put it, can’t find it now).




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